This is some of what is under the surface of the me you’ll be seeing again in a few weeks, the parts that may be different from people making the transition within the US.
This place I’ll be for the summer is possibly my favorite in
the world, both for its natural beauty and that people there who are making a
conscious effort to support each other, work hard, and have fun creatively. No matter how
beloved, it is worlds away from where I am right now and it will take a certain
amount of adjustment to settle in again. I want to think I can just shrug it all off, leave my Doha-self in Doha, but I know from experience that I can’t and probably shouldn't anyway. I’ve come back to this place from many different countries and adventures over the years and it's in these transition times that I am the most challenged and learn the most (when I will start learning from staying in one place for a number of years remains to be seen…).
I am coming from the desert. Right now, and until I leave,
it’s over 100ºF every day and the horizon is always a hazy dusty yellow every
direction. I haven’t seen a forest since last August. I haven’t climbed a hill
that you would call a hill since last August either.
Most of my interactions here are with people who are not
from my home culture, and with whom I don’t share a first language. One thing I like about living abroad is being able to tune out conversations around me because I can’t understand them. It is so
exciting to be around people with whom I share fluency in the same language,
but also awkward and exhausting.
I know there will be discussions this summer about privilege and
race and class. I know people where I’m going are concerned about long-term structural inequalities in the US. I remember from last summer that it was hard to take part in these conversations at first. For the past two years my framework for that has been built in
a very different place and from a different point of view than I would have had
in the US.
I’ve been working on understanding privilege
over the past few years and living here has helped me think about it from the
less-privileged point of view –as a woman and a non-Qatari, though there are
many further down the privilege scale than me here, including workers from
South Asia, Africa, and East Asia. The anger expressed in my own home country, where
having more relative privilege somehow made it harder to see the problem, is
making more sense.
I get frustrated here by having to behave according to cultural
expectations of a people who seem to have an overwhelming sense of
entitlement. Since I have lived here the
respect I’ve gained for the generosity and kindness of some Qataris has been
vastly outmatched by my experiences with the reckless and rude behavior of some
others. Most of this I experience on the
road but some also in how I have witnessed Qataris treating shop clerks and
from reports of abuse of domestic workers in Qatari households (http://dohanews.co/after-assault-in-qatar-indonesian-domestic-worker-returns-home/).
This country often does not seem to be a healthy place, for Qataris or foreigners.
From this other-side-of-the-world point of view I’m proud of
my country, proud of the work and dialogues taking place there. I miss those here, especially within the
upper-class international expat community where we almost never talk about race
or privilege and only rarely about class, even though all those things affect
our lives every day.
So give me a couple of weeks to get used to hills and native-English-speaking
community and courteous drivers again. Let me let my soul catch up with me so I can
be present for important discussions, and be patient while I try to make my
point of view more locally relevant.
I know we’re all coming from very different places, both our
environments and what’s inside our heads.
I’m so looking forward to seeing old friends, meeting new ones, and
hearing about where you’re coming from, too!
What gorgeous photos. I know I can make a connection with nature here in Dubai, but it feels so much harder without greenery abound. Enjoy your holiday :)
ReplyDeleteThank you, Shar!
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